Style Bits and Pieces

For day to evening looks
With a suit add a delicate camisole, a romantic blouse, a statement shoe, jewelry or sequined or glitter top.
With a mini dress wear tights during the day and in the evening add jewelry, clutch purse, scarf or heals

Scrubs
* Consider wearing a sash
* Consider choosing sunny yellow scrubs
* Consider wearing black or dark bottoms
* Choose a red or bright top
* Don’t overlook white for top or bottom
* Wear your school colours
* Remember why you wear the scrubs: germs, easy to clean, easy to change into.
Purses
* Clear out your bag every night before you go to bed to help downsize the weight you are carrying
* Consider buying vintage online or through a specialized dealer
* Avoid black and beige and look for ones that fit with the majority or your wordrobe
* Purses are the most versatile way to complete your wardrobe

For the best eye glass frame for your face choose a shape that is opposite to your face shape.

Use accessories as a conversation starter.

Aunt Sally's Story

Aunt Sally was at one time a single lady. Because she has desires for different adventures she decided to ride a motorcycle.  She is also artistic and loves to dance and garden.

Aunt Sally was on her motorcycle and had an accident.  She now feels that she wants drivers to stay in their lane so that she can enjoy every freedom imaginable.

Aunt Sally went to Simcoe hospital in an ambulance.  While at Simcoe hospital the doctors examined the nature of the injury to the left leg and discovered that she needed urgent care.  She was then flown to Hamilton General.

A team of hospital staff, which included a resident doctor and nurses, made Aunt Sally’s hospital stay as effective as possible.  She had her first operation to heal her broken hip, pelvis and knee.

The next day Aunt Sally was introduced to her surgeon, Monday she had surgery on her knee and Wednesday she had surgery to her pelvis.  Since she needed more work done to her pelvis and opted for bone graph, she had a forth surgery a week later.

While at the hospital Aunt Sally had a lot of nurses that were very helpful and friendly working with her to help her heal.  Her first nights were spent on the burn unit. 

Aunt Sally moved to the Spine unit, West Wing and stayed in room 6-2 where she shared a room with Lady Carol.  Carol had a lot of work done on her spine but Aunt Sally was jealous that Carol could walk but was happy because her leg started to heal.

The West Wing Spine unit had a lot of nurses, health care workers, janitors and diet team to help patients that need surgery to their spine, pelvis and legs.  The nurses have had training at either College or University and had one to plenty of year’s experience.

The personal support workers (P.S.W.’s) often are new Canadians or training nurses and help with moving and cleaning patients.  The janitors clean the rooms and mop the floors; the diet team brings the food to all of the patients for breakfast, lunch and supper.

While Aunt Sally was at the hospital she had to wear a gown, which was provided by the hospital.  Since it was May she was quite warm so she asked Aunt Thressa to buy her some summer bed outfits.  Aunt Thressa went shopping and bought clothes for herself and Aunt Sally. 

Aunt Sally was introduced to physiotherapy, had a boot put on her foot to help stabilize it and moved into a bed chair so she could go outside.  Aunt Sally and Aunt Joanne spent a whole afternoon outside at emergency and at the patio by the cafeteria.  It was great.

Aunt Sally had a lot of visitors which she really enjoyed.  One Sunday Aunt Joanne, Aunt Martha, Martha’s boyfriend Mark, Grandma, Aunt Cindy, Big Uncle John and Lara and Sally’s friend Rita all came by.  We’re healing.

After two and a half weeks at Hamilton General Aunt Sally was transferred to Grand River hospital.  It was nice to change hospitals but she was put in a ward, waiting for a semi private room.

Sally’s roommates included two ladies 88 years old and one lady her age.  The nurses have been very attentive so far and the hospital is very effective. 

After one week at KW Grand River hospital Aunt Sally went with About town Medical Transfer to Sunnyside.  She stayed there for 2 months and then started to learn to walk again.

Aunt Sally is working with the Physiotherapist and his assistant to start walking with the help of a walker.  She also does exercises with her right leg and arms to strengthen them.

Aunt Sally was able to leave Sunnyside for a day trip.  She and Dave went to the beach which was about an hour drive.

Aunt Sally had a lot of time to draw in the hospital. This is when she starting writing and illustrating this book.  Most of the pictures are done in crayon.  The picture on the following page was drawn by Alexia.

Aunt Sally was able to go home but she still needed a lot of help.  She found a physiotherapist, had the help of her occupational therapist, and had attendant care and housecleaning.

Home Sweet Home

The Construction of Style

Alterations

1. Be sure to plan the alteration before you start.  Do an online research, read books or consult others for the best way to alter your garment
2. Part of your research should include working with the type of material.  Look at the garment tag to see what you’re working with.  If need be compare it to other clothing.
3. Practice basic sewing skills on samples.
4. On your comfortable with the basic you can do your own repairs.

Distressing Denim

     Look at an older pair of jeans to see where they are naturally worn out.  For example the bottom, hips, cuffs and knees.  Mark the area you want to distress with a pencil.  Use a mild bleach solution, wear rubber gloves and mix bleach with water.  Using a sponge dip solution, wring and apply to areas you would like to distress.  Wash jean immediately in cold water.  Fray the bottom edges with scissors.  Consider also using sandpaper, cheese graters, or steel brush.

A Full Understanding of the Construction of Clothing

     Sewing your own clothes is an effective way to express you personal style and create something unique that no one else has.  It also allows you to add pockets and details to be specific to your preferences.

     To begin the process of seeing first it helps to be aware of the tools that you can use.

Types of sewing machine accessories:
Straight stitch, zipper foot, invisible zipper foot, gathering foot, zigzag foot, buttonhole foot, over edge foot, narrow hemmer, pin tuck foot, button foot

Guides: 
Seam gauge, blind hemming guide

Types of Fabrics

Plain weave, basket weave, rib weave, twill weave, herringbone weave, satin weave, pile weave, swivel weave, dobby weave, jacquard weave
Tricot knits, raschel knit, plain jersey knit, purl knit, rib knit, double knit and pattern knits
Taffeta, metallic fabric, crepe, sheers, lace, leather, velvet, double faced fabric, stretch knit

Types of Hand Stitches

Backstitch, even backstitch and half-backstitch, prick stitch, even and uneven basting, diagonal basting, slip basting, blanket stitch, buttonhole stitch, chain stitch (decorative)

Hemming
Slant hemming stitch, vertical hemming stitch, uneven slipstitch, flat catch stitch, blind-hemming stitch, blind catch stitch

Types of Seams
Pinked, stitched and pinked, zigzag, turned and stitched, serged, bias bound, net bound, French seam, mock French seam, flat-felled seam, self bound seam, double top stitched seam, welt seam, tuck seam, corded seams

Parts of a Garment (pattern pieces and language)
Facing, bodice, sleeves, cuffs, waistband, collar, belt

Collars
Strip band also called crewneck or mock turtle, turtleneck, flat collar, rolled collar, standing collar, shawl collar, rolled collar with stand

Sleeves
Sleeveless (with facing), set in sleeve, raglan, kimono

Pocket
Patch pockets, in-seam, front hip, slashed pockets with welts

Zippers
Chain, coil, invisible, separating zipper
Application-centered, lapped, fly front, invisible and separating

Athletic Style

Athletic Wear

      Athletic wear is available for many active occasions.  There is specific clothing for yoga, tennis, golf and cycling.  Many of the principles that you use to dress your best at home and at work can also be applied to active wear and swimwear.  There is a vast array to choose from that can be used for many activities such as sport skirts, sport dresses, running clothes, hiking apparel, workout clothes and jersey crossovers.

      One area that requires special attention for active wear is in the line of undergarment particularly bras.  Sports bras are found in sports outlets and specialty bra shops.  Different levels of activity require a various support.  For activities such as yoga, golf, walking and gym training you can use a low impact bra.  Hiking, cycling and paddles sports require a medium impact bra.  A high impact bra is used for running, tennis and mountain biking.

Yoga Wear

Pants* Harem, Capri, short, Bermuda, tights

Tops
* Tank tops, racer back tank top, camisole, halter bra top

Cover ups
* Hoodie, tunic, pullover, cardigan, larger tank

Accessories
* Head band

 Swimwear

     Many of the principles for fashion can be applied to swimwear such as dressing for your body shape and colour analysis. When choosing the best swimwear for your body, remember that various swimsuits are made in longer sizes. Swimwear can also be purchased with large cup sizes. Hoodies, tees, tunics, dresses, tank tunics and rash guard can all be worn as cover ups.

One piece* Halter, twistini, bandini

Tops* Banded halter, triangle top, twistini bra cup, tankini, halter style

Bottoms
* Short, medium brief, skirt(with sewn in brief), skort, tie side, boy bottom, low brief

Performance Swim

Organizing and Caring for Style

 

Organizing the Closet

  

     Closets can acquire clothes at alarming rates and some times it seems like there is still nothing to wear. By organizing the closet you will be able to take inventory of all of your clothing and determine essentials that may be missing. You will also purge your clothing, shoe and accessory inventory making room for more and the ability to organize your clothing in a way that you will able to make better connections and appreciation for what you do have. It may be a daunting task but the results will be rewarding. The first step is to take all of you clothes out of the closet.

      Next sort you clothes into various piles. These may include clothes that you will be giving to charity, your friends, throwing away or using for rags. Consider selling select items on the internet or consignment stores. It is recommended that clothes, shoes, undergarments, etc. that haven’t been worn in a year be disposed of. At this time you can also sort your clothing into separate colours and into piles for tops and piles for bottoms. As well it is recommended that you sort through accessories and undergarments, disposing of what you won’t be wearing and what’s to keep and organize.

     The next step is to plan your wardrobe placement. Keep a separate spot for outerwear, find a separate spot for off season clothing and also designate a spot for future repairs. Analyze your clothing to see what you need to fold and what you need to hang. At this time take inventory of everything that you have and carry this in your purse to help you make smarter purses. After you have fit your clothing back into your closet find a separate spot for accessories. You will enjoy your accessories more if they are displayed. When you are ready to return your undergarments to home consider using a separate drawer for socks, bras and underwear. If you cannot use a separate drawer find dividers to better organize your undergarments.

      Next step back and take a look. Rearrange anything that you may have missed. This could also be a time to consider upgrading your storage. You could use under bed storage, drawer organizers, drawer dividers and clear shoe boxes.
　　

Caring for Natural Fabrics

Cotton 

Wash in warm or cool water.

Tumble dry at hot settings
Iron while damp

Linen

Dry clean to retain crisp finish
Can be wash is softness is preferred; shrinks when washed

Silk

Usually dry clean
If washable done by hand in mild suds
Avoid chlorine bleach
Iron at low temperature settings

Wool

Usually dry clean

Sweater can be washed in tepid water and mild suds
Do not use chlorine bleach
Some wool can be machine washed; follow instructions

 

Caring for Synthetic Fabrics

Acetate

Usually dry clean

If washed done by hand or gentle cycle
If tumble dried use low setting

Acrylic
Machine wash

Nylon

Wash by hand or on gentle cycle in warm water
Fabric softener
Tumble or drip dry

Polyester

Wash in warm water by hand or machine

Tumble or drip dry
Fabric softener

Rayon

Most needs dry cleaning

Machine wash on gentle cycle in warm water
Iron while damp on moderate setting

Spandex

Wash by hand or gentle cycle

Avoid chlorine bleach
Drip or tumble dry
Iron at low temperature

Tumble dry with fabric softener

Seasonal Archetypes-Colour Analysis

      Finding your seasonal colour is one tool to find your best look. There are a few way to find out what your seasonal colour is. First we need to find your undertone. One way to do these is by determining whether gold or silver brings out your skin. If gold is the colour than you have warm undertones and are either a spring or fall. If silver is the colour that highlights your feature than your undertones are cool and you are either a summer or winter. Another way to determine this is by studying you skin tone and if you have peach or gold undertones you have warm undertones and once again you are either a spring or fall. If you have pink or bluish you have cool undertones you are either a summer or winter.

     Then how do you determine whether you are a spring or fall, summer or winter. If you are a spring you will have strawberry blond or light auburn hair and if you are a fall you will have true red, auburn or copper hair. As a summer you have a gentle contrast between your hair and skin colour. As a winter you have a drastic contrast between your hair and skin colour.

Spring

As a spring it is best to wear rich warm colours. For outerwear, suits, pants and jackets choose green, browns and warm shades of purple.

For dresses, scarves and tops choose yellows, red, orange, sailor blue, peach, warm pink, salmon, coral and turquoise.

The book Work It by Jesse Garza and Joe Lupo, forward by Lisa Airan, M.D.  explains the colourtype with different terms.  Spring is Sun, Summer is Moon, Autumn is Earth and Winter is Star.  For Sun (Spring) they add cream and warm blues.

Summer

     As you summer it is best to choose cooler tones.  Think of the tones of the summer garden.  For jackets, suits and pants it is best to choose grays and blues.

For dresses, tops and scarves it is best to choose blues, silver, greens, cool violets, blue green, cloud white, pinks, lavender, fuchsia, rose, mauve and watermelon.

I n Work It, for Moon (Summer) they add sandy tones, yellow, fuchsia and magenta.

Autumn/Fall

     As an autumn it best to choose warm colours.  For jackets pants and suits choose browns, warm shades or purple or forest or olive greens.

For tops, dresses and scarves choose yellows, reds, orange, copper, bronze, gold, deep teal, cinnamon, rust, olive, and sage.

In Work It, for Earth (Autumn) they add creams, light orange, marigold and warm blues.

Winter

As a winter you will look best in cool colours. Often an objective will be to wear a strong contrast in pieces of clothing to match with the strong contrast or your hair and skin. For jackets, suits and pants choose shade of gray, white and black.

For tops, dresses and scarves choose silver, blue, green, soft grays, cool violets, white, ruby red, emerald green, royal blue, purple and hot pink.



In Work It for Star (Winter) they add sandy shades, pales blues, yellow and pale cool greens.

Foundation to Style-Thoughts on Undergarments

Goodevening Readers,

The Bra

      It is believed that seventy to eighty five percent of ladies wear the wrong size bra. Wow! Why would this number be so high? One reason could be that women buy the size that they wan rather than the one that fits. Our bodies are ever changing with weight fluctuations and this is always evident in the breast. With these changing weight fluctuations many women do not consider the importance of fitting our bras accordingly. Bra shopping can be a very difficult experience made even more difficult due to each country having a slightly different sizing system.

The area of incorrect fit is in the both the band size and cup size.

The solution to finding the right bra size can be in finding bras at a specialty shop and get professionally fitted. Some carriers do not carry a full range of sizes and therefore one need to find a specialty bra shop. A professional fitter will carry AA to K. When trying on bras you could also have a friend help point out that the band size and cup size is the right fit.
When founding the right bra measurements are only a starting point. First measure around your rib cage directly below your bust and add a couple of inches and this becomes your band size. Then measure the fullest part of your bust. Subtract your band size and you will have you cup size according to the following chart.


0-1/2”	½-1”	2”	3”	4”	5”	6”	7”	8”	9”	10”
AA	A	B	C	D	E,DD	F,DDD	G	H	I	J

　
An important thing to remember when trying on bras is to try them on using the last hooks because as they relax you want to be able to tighten them. As well understand that band size and cup size compliment each other, when you need to change your band size you might need a different cup size to compensate for the change. Don’t get hung up on the number and letter combo.Every wardrode has different requirements for foundation garments.  This is a sample of a few:

 Contour Bra 

                          Sport Bra



   Lacy Bra                     
Strapless Bra

Demi Bra 

Corset

 Caring for Lingerie, Bras, Swimwear and Shape wear
There are some guidelines to keep your lingerie, bras swimwear and shape wear lasting, maintaining its shape and looking its best.
1. Wash by hand with a gentle cleanser.
2. Avoid washing in hot water.
3. Wash bras after three to five wearing.  More often with increased perspiration.
4. Wear dark bras under dark clothing.
5. Never use bleach on swimwear because it will eat the spandex.  Find alternative solutions for removing stains.
6. Squeeze out water and hang to dry.
     When organizing you intimate apparel use separate drawers or dividers.  Choose one for socks one for bras, one for underwear, and another for slips, shapers, hosiery, etc.  Through out any lingerie that you wouldn’t want to be seen wearing, has little elasticity, is worn out, frayed or thread bare.  As well get ride of anything that hasn’t been worn in over a year and doesn’t fit or is uncomfortable.  Consider using sachets to help keep you undergarment smelling fresh.
Making Lingerie
           Making your own lingerie can be an enjoyable place to start sewing. You could start with easy project such as half slips, full slip and camisoles and enjoy a custom fit. Then move on to projects such as tap pants, sleep shirts, robes and pajamas. As well as enjoying custom made nightwear these could be fantastic gifts.